Friday 30 January 2015

Playa Del Carmen

We still had a car today, so we started heading toward Cancun. Our intention was to travel through Cancun and to take a ferry to Isla de Mujeres. We didn't make it, instead being sidetracked into Playa del Carmen. I think this was a lucky happenstance.

We were not crazy about Cancun, but we found we rather liked Playa del Carmen. It is full of huge resorts, but at least you can walk the beach and stop here and there to have a beer. A few blocks off the beach was a pedestrian street with heaps of little shops and hotels. Starbucks and MacDonalds was there, but so were little interesting restaurants and hostels. We enjoyed our walk.

Ferries to Cozumel in the background

A parked ferry

Huge All-Inclusives

Boats and Pelicans

Reminiscent of Puerto Vallarta

Tulum

A rental car took us twenty minutes down the coast to the small town of Tulum. The town is on the highway and it looks quite lovely. We, however, hardly slowed down for a look. Instead we headed straight to the Tulum ruins.

On one level, Tulum is just another rocky ruin. If you've seen one, you've seen them all.

Dig a little deeper, however, and find a number of elements that are unique and quite fascinating.

This was a Mayan city, which means that the gorier things never happened here. There were no human sacrifices and the winners of the ball game survived. The Toltecs who came from the area of Mexico City only conquered as far as Chichen Itza. This was a city of agriculturists and astronomers. Only about three hundred elite lived in the city proper, but thousands were spread out around the city.

Inside the wall are a number of towers and temples which are dedicated to astronomy. Two separate towers accurately identify the spring and fall equinoxes. On exactly March 21, the rising sun shines precisely through a hole in one temple. and the same happens in another temple on September 21. 

This was a walled city, so you had to pass through
a Mayan Arch to enter.

The first building we encountered was aligned to
identify one of the equinoxes

The main temple had one hole on each side of centre.
The sun shone through one on the summer solstice,
and through the other on the winter solstice, thus
identifying the longest and shortest days of the year.

Columns indicate that this building has a thatched roof,
probably a residence.


The main temple

Debby found another great tree.















When we left the ruin, we drove down a long winding road to the shore. We had been told that we would eventually find some wonderful restaurants and resorts. This is where the movie stars go to find luxury and privacy.

The first thing we found was an unidentified photo shoot.


Then we found our own restaurant.

It was called Le Zebra and it was wonderfully luxurious
and decadent.

The live music was Latin Jazz and it was wonderful.

Lunch was amazing and it wasn't too expensive.

When we got back to our room, we looked up Le Zebra on the internet. We discovered that some of the rooms rented for almost 800 USD per night.

Sunday 25 January 2015

Akumal

Okay, I have finally started my holiday. The place reminds me a bit of Byron Bay in Australia, without the town, only the beach.

Our room is on the second floor. If I look right from the balcony (as I sip a cool drink) i see the pool and waterfall. If I look left I see the beautiful sand beach. I have arrived.
Deb at Ease


The pool looks very refreshing.

The beach is just over there.

The fishing boats are moored just outside the swimming area.



We saw the swan, but then couldn't find our second towel ..... Duh!!!

Saturday 24 January 2015

Cancun

Cancun is Crazy Town. It's a little like Vegas and a little like a mad Disneyland. Hotels and Resorts and Condos stretch along the coast.











Chichen Itza

Here we are at Chichen Itza, the most famous Mayan ruin in Mexico, another UNESCO site, and recenly named as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. The expectations have been built to a remarkable level, and this place lives up to its billing.

This was a purely Mayan ruin, until the Aztecs near Mexico City sent the Toltecs scrambling. The Toltecs had to go somewhere, so they came and invaded Chichen Itza. The result was a blending of Mayan and Toltec cultures. The Mayans were peaceful people, but the Toltecs definitely were not.

With them, the Toltec warriors brought the feathered serpent Quetzalcoatl and human sacrifice. Sacrifices were important enough and necessary enough that they had to continually send out raiding parties to nearby cities just to maintain a ready supply of sacrificial victims. The Toltecs believed that the sun god travelled across the sky freely each day, but at night he was at war with the many gods of the underworld. If the priests perceived and weakening of the sun when he rose, this was interpreted as a sign that the battle had not gone well the previous night. A human sacrifice was required to give the sun god strength.

When these people played their ball game, the competition was intense, because the winner was given such a great honour. He was decapitated and sacrificed to the sun god.

"The Castle" in the centre of the city.
This pyramid has been called "The Castle", and it actually serves as one very large calendar. Each side shows the faces of nine tiers. The staircase divides each tier into two sections. There are eighteen sections representing the eighteen months. Each month had twenty days and there are twenty carvings on the faces of these sections, representing the twenty days. I can imagine placing a marker on one section, representing the current month, and another marker on a single carving, representing the current day. This pyramid has four sides and it sits in the centre of the main square. Anyone, from any direction can easily identify the date at a glance. The extra five days did not have names, so the markers could just be removed on those unlucky days.

Also of note is the fact that each staircase has 91 steps. Four staircases have 364 steps. When you add the platform at the top you have 365, the number of days in a year.

There do seem to be serpents everywhere.

The main Ballcourt is the largest in any ruin, and from the reports, it may have been the most deadly.

The hero who won was honoured by being sacrificed.

There is some uncertainty about the purpose
of the wall of skulls.

There are suggestions that the heads of enemies or of
sacrificial victims were displayed here.

The Jaguar (below) and the Eagle (above)
are both seen devouring human hearts.

More Serpents

A Chac Mool was used to hold a human sacrifice
and to catch the blood.

Each side of each staircase of "The Castle" was
decorated with a serpent's head.


At each each equinox, the rising sun would cast a shadow on the side of the starcase. The undulating shape of the tiers made a serpentine shadow which appeared to be coming down the staircase as the sun got higher in the sky. The serpent head at the bottom completed the illusion.

At sunset, the serpent could be seen rising back up to the sky on the opposite side of the staircase.

This illusion was made possible because the entire pyramid was precisely aligned 17 degrees off of true north and south.


A chac mool sits at the top of the stairs.

The "Thousand Columns" were thought to be something
of a hostel. People who were invited to the ceremonies
we lodged here. In return, they provided labour.

This is called "The Observatory" and the reason is obvious
Windows were aligned carefully and bowls of water were
used to view the stars without bending the head back.

Deb had her picture taken with an eagle
and a jaguar

Dinner was at a local cenote. It was
beautiful and it tasted okay.

We had the option to swim in the cenote, but we did not.

Uxmal

Uxmal is another UNESCO site which demonstrates once and for all that each is unique. Here the central temple, called the Fortune Teller Pyramid, has an oval shape. This shape mimics the homes built by the local people. These homes look like small white stucco cottages with thatched roofs. The area is regularly struck by hurricanes and the oval shape gives the homes greater structural integrity, therefore they are more likely to survive gale force winds.

Palenque is in a rainforest, therefore the people could redirect water for their purposes. Here there is a very wet and a very dry season. It was necessary to save and conserve water. To accomplish this, they dug very large and very deep wells which were very wide at the bottom and narrow at the top (less evaporation). They lined the wells with plaster and built large catchment areas to collect the water during the wet season. Frogs and fish were placed in the wells to consume algae and keep the water clean. In this way, they were able to survive the dry season.

Another remarkable difference here is the amount of and the condition of the decorations everywhere you look. Of necessity, the people worshipped Chaac, the rain god, but you also find images of Quetzalcoatl, the feathered serpent. They are beautiful and in wonderful condition.

This site is now in some form of transition. Some portions are roped off, but you are still allowed to climb on some of the structures. We were told that plans were in the works to restrict access to all ruins. They are very much afraid of graffiti.

The Oval "Fortune Teller's Pyramid"

On another pyramid, faces of Chaac flank the stairs.


A closeup of Chaac shows his unique nose.

The structure is called "Nun's Square" containing many
small rooms. The decorations are amazing.

A Stone recreation of one of the peasant's huts.

Detail of the feathered serpent on a facade of Nun's Square.

I don't really know what this is, but I liked it.

I climbed many steps to get this detail.

The ball court had rings on the sides.

A large phallus symbolically fertilizing the earth.



Just a pile of rubble, and part of the ongoing restoration.

Debby found some friends at our restaurant.