Sunday, 9 December 2018

A Taste of Vesterålen

Vesterålen is somewhat surprising. We have apparently come far enough south that there are now farms. During the summer the sun shines an incredible number of hours. Plants grow very quickly and very large.

We disembarked at Harstad with every intention of meeting the boat again a Sortland. The bus did a quick tour of Harstad and headed off to a church.

Outside

Inside

A stone Church with Walls Three Metres Thick

One Very Well-Used Door (With a Knocker and a Measuring Stick)

A Museum with a Fire Pit

The Bus Driver Stopped When He Saw a Moose

Catriona and Deb at a Coffee Stop (With Brown Cheese and Lofoten Cheese)

A Troll got caught out in the light, and so he turned to stone.

The stone marks the site of an avalanche. Only the women and children died because the men were out fishing.

The bus stopped on a bridge to view our ship coming to meet us.

Midnight Concert

MS Spitsbergen was docked in Tromsø for slightly less than two hours. We spent one and a half of those hours travelling to and listening to a "Midnight Concert in the Arctic Cathedral". We also had to spend 15 minutes waiting while the crew fought to lower a faulty gangway.

The concert was amazing but we didn't understand a word. The songs were in Sami, Norwegian and Swedish. There were three performers: a cellist, a pianist and a soprano. The first three performances were from behind our backs, where the keyboardist performed a solo on the pipe organ. The next song began as the soprano walked up the aisle to the front. The was no sound magnification and the acoustics were incredible. She was soon joined by the cellist and the pianist (who now sat at a piano).

Each did some solo work and each was very talented. Together they were very compelling.

The final two songs were O Holy Night, and Brahm's Lullaby. Finally I could at least hum along.

Unfortunately we were asked not to take any pictures during the concert.

Catriona enjoying the lights of Tromsø

The Arctic Cathedral

One of the largest glass mosaic windows in the world (with no backlighting)

The outside surfaces are textured so that the snow sticks. It looks like snow.

Friday, 7 December 2018

Northern Lights

Just as we were finishing up our dinner, it was announced that the northern lights were visible, so of course we had to rush upstairs. Of course, my camera battery died. Of course I had difficulty with exposure.

The lights were fairly dim to start with, but they brightened up quite dramatically. At one point they were dancing achoo the sky. I did get a few pictures, but they certainly do not do them. I'm learning though. Perhaps the next pictures will be better.






Hammerfest

Hammerfest is a fairly large town which has grown because of the Natural Gas Plant. It is also the northernmost town in the world. There is some controversy because there is a settlement which is slightly further north, but it is too small to be called a town.

Welcome to Hammerfest

Our Home For Five More Nights

Stuffed inside the Polar Bear Society

More Stuffed Animals

Fish Drying Rack

Hammerfest Church




Back on board, I rested for a little while, then went for a presentation in the lounge. I think Deb will soon be ready to have some dinner.

Life On Board

Shortly after we arrived on board, it was lunch time. A buffet was served that would have satisfied any taste. I started with curried lamb. While we ate, a narrow strip of light appeared on the horizon. We though it might be our first sight of the northern Lights. No, it was just the sun setting. We saw light but not the sun itself. One of the waitresses was very excited. It was the first time in two days that she had seen the sun.

Our berths are quite roomy and very comfortable, but soon after we were underway, the open sea became quite rough and the boat started to rock. We were fine.

Before dinner, we had a couple of drinks. Sitting down, the rough water was no problem. Going upstairs for dinner involved considerable swaying from side to side. For dinner we were given a set  meal at a reserved table. Our first reindeer meat proved to be very tender and very tasty.

Overnight the sea became even rougher. I had a wonderful night's sleep. Deb did very well. Catriona, at the front of the boat, had some issues. Breakfast was another very comprehensive buffet. We will not starve on this voyage.

After breakfast Deb began to feel queazy. She took a gravol and lay down for a nap. I put out the "Do Not Disturb" sign and brought her a little food after lunch. She ate a bit and then slept for much of the afternoon.

Catriona and I went up to the observation deck for some "Energy Coffee" before our next port.

There was some light so we were able to get some pictures of the coast.

Just before landing we passed a natural gas installation.

A Ship For Carrying Liquid Natural Gas (LNG)

Our Smallest Lifeboat

From the Top Deck

Looking Back

Catriona Hiding From the Cold

Looking Forward

Forward


Thursday, 6 December 2018

Winter Wonderland

It's Cruise day. Catriona arrived last night in time for cocktails. The prediction for today called for sleet, but instead we woke up to a hinterland.

Look carefully at the hood.

Amazing Snowplow with hydraulic wings

Yesterday we walked up this street. There were no piles of snow.

Deb pretended to give the kicksled a try.
At 11:15 a bus came to take us to the boat. We boarded and very quickly departed Kirkenes.

Catriona & Deb found a spot for chatter.

Reception (of course, we needed help with two issues immediately)

Snack Bar - Coffee is free anytime, but you have to pay for snacks.

Lounge - where there will be daily presentations.

Now we're on the Spitsbergen we need to know where the Coastal Kitchen is.

And the Dining Room

Wednesday, 5 December 2018

Scandic Kirkenes


Neither Deb nor I slept well last night. In my case, it was worry that I might miss my early flight to Kirkenes which would ultimately mean missing our cruise. The pressure was unbearable.

Well we didn't miss the flight and they will pick us up for the cruise tomorrow morning at 11:30. Now we can relax. We both fell asleep, but first ...

Our flight landed at just before eleven in the morning. The light was dim (dawn or dusk). By twelve at our hotel it was starting to get dark. After lunch it was night time. We are well north of the Arctic Circle. At this time of year there are only three hours of light per day.

The following pictures were taken between noon and one. For most I turned the flash off and set the camera for Long-Exposure NR (Noise Reduction). With this setting you lose some clarity, but the pictures are somewhat balanced.

First, we noticed the fire at the front door.

Sleds are locked to the bike rack.
I first heard of these sleds during the Lillehammer Winter Olympics. They are called kicksleds and People were scooting all over the place, some walking behind and using them for balance, others resting one foot on a runner and pushing like a scooter.

Within a few minutes, we had seen two wenmen using them.
The women we saw were walking cautiously behind them. Their value was evident when we then went for a little walk and found that the ground was very icy under a slight layer of snow.

The bench outside the front door had reindeer hides spread on them.

I did discover that this area is a good fishing ground for king crabs. This one was in a tank in anticipation of dinner.